JOINT SERVICES EAST NEPAL EXPEDITION, 1983.

Summary acl 23210a

In 1980 the RN and RM Mountaineering Club (RN & RM MC) sponsored an
expedition to the^Hiraachal Pradesh area of India where a 20000ft peak, Phabrang,
was allocated by the Indian Mountaineering Federation. The expedition was
successful and the peak was climbed from two directions one of which was the
steep and unclimbed west face. This was the Club's first Himalayan venture
and it was always the intention for it to be a prelude to others. Accordingly
planning for a follow-on got underway in I98I with a view to attempting a
25000ft peak in the Hunza' area of the Karakorum in Northern Pakistein. In the
event this did not happen for reasons that will be explained later.
2. Subsequently the RN & RM MC combined with the RAF Mountaineering Association
(RAIMA) to form a Joint Services expedition to a peak in Nepal. The Army
Mountaineering Association was invited to send two members and one was selected.
Unfortunately he had to drop out so sadly there were no soldiers present. The
peak that was allocated by the Nepalese authorities was the North Peak of Manaslu,
25500ft and in am area which is normally remote and hard of access. It had had
no British ascents and possibly a Czech first ascent from the North in 1979«
Reports of a Dutch expedition inwere vague. It was therefore an exciting
challenge to try for a peak about which so little was known emd which seemed
so remote.
5 . This report is about how this challenge was met successfully by what, it
is suggested, was a uniquely harmonious expedition. A presentation was given
at the Royal Geographical Society on 1 Nov 83 which explained visually how
things went. This report therefore will not include full photographic coverage.