KARAVASHIN-LIAILIAK EXPEDITION 1999.

Summary acl 27447

The aim of the Karavashin-Liailak 99 expedition w as to climb new routes and free
existing Russian aid routes on the granite towers of the Liailak and Karavashin valleys of
Kyrygzstan. Due to the superb range of unclimbed rock the team decided to ignore the
existing aid routes and concentrate on new routes. In total 10 new routes were
established on 5 different peaks before an early departure from the region w as forced by
the threat of kidnap by invading Afghan Taliban guerrillas.
All the routes were climbed in an adventurous lightweight style, a contrast to the
approach used by some other visitors to the area. All routes were done ground up and
free (with the exception of two pendulums), with almost no pegs used and only one bolt
placed by hand. A very small amount of fixed rope w as used on a few routes, in
particular on the route the Philosophers Stone. No portaledges or hauling were used.
Italian, German and French teams who had previously operated in the area had relied on
bolt protection for belays and some protection.
It is interesting to note the contrast in styles between our approach and many of the
participants in the Russian Championships which took place in the Karavashin valley
during our v isit. We very much operated on a "see-it climb-it" cragging approach.
Where speed and free climbing ability were essential to complete the routes before bad
weather approach. The Russians seem to revel in the art of suffering, several teams
spending 12 days on 2nd ascent of routes. Not wishing to decry the obvious abilities of
Russian mountaineers who could justly claim to be the dominant force in world
mountaineering at the moment, it w as surprising to see teams sticking to existing routes
in standard slow big wall style. The format of the Russian competition seemingly
dictating an approach which will lead to stagnation not innovation.
Needless to say our routes scored very low on the Russian grading scale as they
were very quick and so couldn't be hard.