BRITISH MAZENO RIDGE EXPEDITION, 2012

thousand metre peak. Isolated from both the Karakoram peaks to the north and from
the Himalayas (to which, geologically, it belongs) to the east, Nanga Parbat stands
alone, reflecting the likely derivation o f its name from the Sanskrit Nanga Paravat,
“naked mountain”. Rising from the gorge o f the Indus river its Rupal face forms the
greatest vertical interval from valley floor to summit in the world. The earliest true
attempt to climb it was in 1895 when Albert Mummery, with Geoffrey Hastings and J.
Norman Collie first made a recoimaissance o f the huge Rupal Face, which they
thought un-climbable. They then crossed the Mazeno Pass and prospected the Diamir
Face. Holding the opinion that the Diamir Face looked more promising. Mummery
explored a feature now known as the “Mummery Rib” with two Ghurkhas (Ragobir
and Goman Singh), who had arrived with Major Charles Bruce to offer support to the
other three men. Mummery’s team was forced to turn back at 6100 m. Mummery felt
that one more long day would have been sufficient for them to force a route to the
summit, which perhaps showed that he did not truly appreciate what they were up
against, but then again perhaps reflected his positive attitude and optimism.
Mummery and his two Ghurkhas then set o ff to cross the Diama pass and were never
seen again. The first ascent was achieved by Herman Buhl in 1953. Since then most
o f the ridges and faces have been climbed however the Mazeno or west ridge, has
been such a formidable undertaking that it has remained unclimbed in its entirety