A SHORT WINTER IN THE HINDU KUSH 2012

The team attempted the first winter ascent of Mir Samir, Afghanistan. The mountain, located in the
remote upper section of the Panjshir Valley, was made famous by Eric Newby and Hugh Carless in
the popular adventure book “A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush”.
Our objective was the unclimbed North Face, although if conditions prevented this we planned to
climb the East Ridge, the same route Eric Newby attempted in the summer of 1956. Eric and his
climbing partner turned back 700ft from the summit after running short of time and becoming
concerned about getting down in the dark.
Unfortunately, a number of factors led to our expedition being cut short. The theft of a kit bag
containing essential equipment, coupled with very deep snow conditions and route finding difficulties,
meant the team were unable to even reach the base-camp of the mountain.
While the summit of Mir Samir escaped us, the expedition was a success in the sense that we
travelled safely within Afghanistan, met some incredible people who welcomed us as their guests and
had the adventure of our lifetimes. Climbing Mir Samir in the depth s of an Afghan winter was always
an ambitious dream, but I feel we have come away wiser and hopefully with the knowledge to come
back and try again.