BRITISH MAZENO RIDGE EXPEDITION, 2012
- The Expedition 2012
- [10] leaves, photo, 30cm.
thousand metre peak. Isolated from both the Karakoram peaks to the north and from the Himalayas (to which, geologically, it belongs) to the east, Nanga Parbat stands alone, reflecting the likely derivation o f its name from the Sanskrit Nanga Paravat, “naked mountain”. Rising from the gorge o f the Indus river its Rupal face forms the greatest vertical interval from valley floor to summit in the world. The earliest true attempt to climb it was in 1895 when Albert Mummery, with Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie first made a recoimaissance o f the huge Rupal Face, which they thought un-climbable. They then crossed the Mazeno Pass and prospected the Diamir Face. Holding the opinion that the Diamir Face looked more promising. Mummery explored a feature now known as the “Mummery Rib” with two Ghurkhas (Ragobir and Goman Singh), who had arrived with Major Charles Bruce to offer support to the other three men. Mummery’s team was forced to turn back at 6100 m. Mummery felt that one more long day would have been sufficient for them to force a route to the summit, which perhaps showed that he did not truly appreciate what they were up against, but then again perhaps reflected his positive attitude and optimism. Mummery and his two Ghurkhas then set o ff to cross the Diama pass and were never seen again. The first ascent was achieved by Herman Buhl in 1953. Since then most o f the ridges and faces have been climbed however the Mazeno or west ridge, has been such a formidable undertaking that it has remained unclimbed in its entirety